![]() But if you’re keen to get your tomatoes in now and you live in a warm region, then remember three things: put your stake in before the plant, feed the soil with calcium (lime if soil is acidic or gypsum if soil is neutral) and plant the tomatoes deeply to encourage maximum root growth. Step 1 Handle seedlings with care when easing them out of their containers for repotting to minimise root disturbance. They’ll do better when temperatures are consistently higher. There’s no rush to get tomato plants in.Label and water them, and place in a warm, sheltered position for around another 4 weeks. This encourages root growth and makes the plants strong. This is easier with what is called a transplanting dibber, or you could simply use a wooden lolly stick or a spoon. Tomato seedlings do best when they’re planted almost up to their necks. First, carefully lift the seedlings out of the soil.Shake the soil off the plants, separate them out, then carefully, holding the plant by the leaves, make a hole in the soil with a dibber and drop the roots of the plant into the soil. Cut a small clump of seedlings out of the tray with a knife. Fill up small pots with a good potting mix.Make sure the seedling tray has dried out so the soil falls off the roots easily.When buying plants, choose sturdy plants up to a foot tall. The tomato seedlings are now ready for stage two, which means pricking them out and transplanting them into individual pots. Start tomatoes from seeds indoors, five to six weeks before planting outside. And the ideal time to transplant tomato seedlings depends on several factors: the last expected frost date in your area, soil temperature, and nighttime temperatures. ![]() ![]() Five weeks ago we sowed a tray with tomato seeds, as well as a row of beetroot and a row of basil (which is only just appearing now).
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